I heard about the abandoned theme park from
a couple of Australian ‘dudes’. At first glance they seemed like carbon copies
of the guys from the Fosters adverts, but on closer inspection it became clear
that only one of them deserved that pejorative judgment. Ignoring the ‘LAD’ as
he repeatedly tried to flick a card down an Austrian girl’s top, I spoke with
the cool guy about the Nazi’s. I had just got back from the Topography of
Terror, which as the name suggests is a visual and textual exhibition mapping Hitler’s
rise through 1930-1945. He had visited a real life concentration camp that day
so, although we were in sync, he was very much ‘winning’.
Amid a backdrop of: impromptu fridge art,
shisha pipes, people using beer bottles as water pistols, accusations of false
identity, oversized foam dice games, constant camera flashing, potatoes being
thrown at people on the street, Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody, prescription pills,
and good old Aussie lechery, the cool guy told me about his visit – harrowing,
mind-blowing, “must-see” etc. – and I told him about mine – disturbing,
interesting, “worth a visit” etc.
Keen to avoid his pal – who at the time was
scrunching his face up like a bulldog to pose for a photo with two blonde girls
– the cool guy mentioned some other places that he thought were worth checking
out. The TV tower is the tallest building in Berlin and it affords you a
panoramic view of the insomniac city with characteristically affordable beer.
The Brandenburg Gate is a big sightseeing place that didn’t excite me that
much. And the abandoned theme park sounded lush.
He described a ghost town, but unlike the
conventional image of cowboy saloons and empty bars, he painted me a picture of
humungous ferris wheels, dodgem cars and rollercoasters, guarded by German
gypsies, hidden within one of Berlin’s city parks. “The best thing about the
place is the way its just been left there to rot. If there wasn’t so much
birdshit about the place, you could probably get the rides going; everything’s
in the right place still.”
I had read about somewhere like this in
North Korea and was just about to tell the cool guy when the lairy fella
stumbled over and started barking loudly in my ear about how many beers he
downed through a funnel when he was at the theme park. He rolled his jeans up
and showed me a graze on his left shin from where he had tripped over a piece
of rusty train track. I wondered if his wound was capable of becoming infected
as he rambled on at me. Later that night he got kicked out of a nightclub for throwing
up on a DJ. The bouncers are built like oxes, but they are not used to that
kind of thing and it was pretty funny to see them attempt to drag the drunkard
outside. They tried their best not to scrape him against the floor, but for
some reason he went limp and allowed his, already-damaged, leg to trail behind him;
an act of defiance that with any luck could have led to an amputation.
I never saw him or his cool mate again.
The next day I set out for the abandoned
theme park with a half-Russian/half-Algerian blonde gay stripper, a short Hispanic
football-fanatic American, and two miscellaneous mute Turks.
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